Why going to Guinea Bissau?

This country is the destination of the true Africa-lover. The unspoilt nature is overwhelming. Splendid inhabited and uninhabited islands – the Bijagos archipelago – without hotels, without flats and, except for Bubaque, without cars or tarred roads. The quiet of these island has no comparison.

The nature-lover will be impressed by the amount of hibernating water birds from Europe, the saltwater hippopotamus, only to be seen in this part of the world and the enormous tortoises laying their eggs on the gleaming white beaches.

The culture-lover can roam around through the tiny villages where no-one is in a hurry. The Bijugu – the inhabitants of the islands – have not changed over the centuries and it feels as if time stood still.

“Late in the afternoon, a man comes strolling out of the village with a fishing net hanging over his shoulder.  As he arrives at the sea, he slowly rolls up his trousers and wanders into the sea. As soon as the water reaches his thighs, he takes the net of his shoulder and throws it, fanning out in a circle, into the sea. Pensively he looks at the sunset. A bit later, he turns around and pulls the net behind him. He never even looks back. On the beach he spreads the net, picks out the small fish and throws them back into the water. He looks satisfied at the content, the evening meal is secured.”

In this way, the rhythm of the sun determines the actions of the inhabitants. The women in their traditional skirts, keep themselves busy around the beautifully decorated thatched huts. This is a matriarchal culture. The little house is hers and when her husband does not meet the expectations, she can kick him out just like that.

Nevertheless, the island are not the only reason that make a visit to Guinea Bissau worthwhile. As soon as one enters the country, be it at the border with Senegal or at the airport, the first thing that springs to the eye is the quiet and calm. You will not find throngs of taxi drivers, beggars or sellers of useless items trying to convince you to buy. If at first the language seems to be a problem, you will soon find out that some people understand French, others, especially youngsters, some English. The most important thing is that they will try everything to understand you or to find you somebody who does speak your language.

Bissau, the capital, is a quiet, sleepy provincial town, with in the centre old colonial Portuguese houses. At night the centre is deserted. This is not the case in the popular neighbourhoods though. Here busyness prevails. Even at night, although no electricity is available, you can find people everywhere. In small bars, behind containers converted into small shops, people sit and discuss life. Football and politics are the prime hobby. Here and there a film is shown and, although the sputtering sound of generators can become rather annoying, the busyness is really amiable. A peanut vendor sits besides two men selling 2 or 3 packets of cigarettes. On their little table a candle is burning, protected against the wind by a cut-off water bottle.

The museum, in reconstruction after the Senegalese soldiers destroyed it completely during the 1998-1999 war, is worth visiting although not always open. On the first floor you can find the price-winning masks of carnival. As they do not belong to the official exposition, you need to ask for them.

The shop in the old town, selling splendidly woven fabrics, is a must as are both ateliers where they were made in Quinhamel and Calequisse. Old lost designs have been recuperated. The shop also sels all other kinds of crafts and locally made products.

Guinea Bissau is one of the few African countries where Carnival is celebrated lavishly. During 4 days, the town changes into one big moving mass of people. You will not find Brazilian glitter and sparkle, but cultural expressions of Guinean culture. Each and every ethnical groups shows its traditional wear and dances. Besides, enormous masks are made following the theme of the year. Last February, the themes were “Clandestine immigration and the combat against drugs abuse”. The masks were splendid. In 2009 the theme was "let's join hands to build a better Guinea".

In the South of the country, Buba, Iembereng, Casumba, Bedanda, Lagoa de Cufada, beautiful forests dominate the scenery divided by rivers and river arms. Mangrove alternates with white beaches. You find real virgin forest where, since they started to be protected, you can find more and more wild animals (i.e. chimpanzees and forest buffalos are being spotted more and more regularly). An abundance of coloured birds can be seen. And then, last but not least, the population of this region itself.  Almost all ethnical groups can be found here, from the Islamic Peulh to the animist Balanta and all between these two. They all have their language, culture and habits and live together as good neighbours. A canoe trip through this pure nature is as adventurous as any safari.

In the north of the country, in Cacheu, the rests of an old Portuguese fortress can be found. Old statues of Portuguese leaders lay there, destroyed, bearing witness of the hard-won independence war. Calequis, one of the most picturesque villages of the country with its huge giant trees, is the centre of the potters.  They make clay pots in the most unexpected forms and measures.

The East, Bafatá is the second town of the country. It is the place where Amilcar Cabral was born but the town has lost a lot of its fame during the last years. It has been passed by Gabú, the commercial town of the country. Lorries from the neighbouring countries drive on and off. Almost 100% of the population here is Muslim and suddenly the atmosphere is completely different; energetic, lively, men and women on bicycles, donkey carts with mounts of goods, little boys running behind the cattle.

The village Tabatho, just outside Bafatá is one of the best known “griot” villages. From early age onwards, children are given their instrument on which they learn to play. There are no history books here but the stories about the glorious wars between the Mandingos and the Peulh, the migration from the Mandingos from the empire of Mali and from Guinea Conakry to Gabú and Bafatá are repeatedly sung by the griot accompanied by the Kora and the Balofon, and the beautiful voices of the women.

The touristic sector is here still in its infancy. The main advantage being of course that many things are still to be discovered, a disadvantage can be the difficulties one can encounter in finding a sleeping place or transport. This is exactly where BinobaiBissau can help you out. We can give you advice and can support you with all kinds of logistics, contacts with translators, hiring of a car, (payable) hotels or guesthouses.